Africa 2014 - Kilimanjaro Day 4 - Karanga Camp (12,900' to 14,500' to13,250')

After yet another cold night in the 20's, we woke at 5:45 am in the Barranco Valley knowing how our day was to begin.  The dreaded Barranco Wall looms outside our tents waiting for our attempt at ascent.  We received our expected morning visit from Joe inquiring as to our mental and physical states.  Thankfully, I still feel remarkably well.  No headaches or nausea. Wouldn't this be an unpleasant experience if you were not feeling well?

We woke early to get ahead of the other groups camping in the Barranco Valley. The various tour groups tend to stack up on the Barranco Wall and if we get there first we won't be part of the traffic jam unless we cause it ourselves.

Breakfast was a friendly affair complete with the daily coffee substitute called Africafe, an instant coffee that's not half bad. I'm just thankful that the caffeine addiction is being kept at bay during this trek. The last thing I need is a throbbing head due to caffeine withdrawals.

After assembling the group with their back packs we began our walk to the wall around 7:00 am. Fear can cause you to make mistakes, so it's important to be calm and collected during the climb. Without looking down, you can mentally reduce the effort to small chunks of scrambling over boulders.  There were plenty of hand holds and lots of instruction from our guides on foot placement.

Scrambling up the Barranco Wall

One of the steeper parts of the Barranco Wall

FBI assists Laurel up a difficult step of the Barranco Wall

Hugging Rock - The scariest section of Barranco Wall

The toughest part of the wall was called "hugging rock". There was only one way around and it was to place your chest on the rock and coax your body around it without letting your center of gravity get behind you.  Everyone safely navigated this obstacle without issue.

Close to the top of Barranco Wall

Barranco Wall - Walking on the edge

It took us two hours to reach the top of the 1,600' Barranco Wall and we were glad to have this section of the climb behind us. Personally, I found the experience of climbing the wall quite exhilarating. There was no time I felt scared or unsafe. If you remain methodical and mindful of each step's placement, there is really no need for concern or fear. What good would it do anyway? 

Frequently, one of the local guides will yell "Koochay, Koochay" (forgive the spelling).  Loosely translated this means "Happy in Adventure". To which the correct response is "Koochay" tagged with some kind of joyous "woo-hoo" or yodeling or whatever. If the team ever gets quiet, the guides would prod us with "Koochay, Koochay" to remind us that this endeavor is supposed to be fun.  At times, this reminder would prove to be important. 

Top of Barranco Wall (14,500')

Top of Barranco Wall (14,500')

After topping the Barranco Wall we descend down into the next valley. Because we are horizontally crossing over the front of Kilimanjaro we will have to traverse multiple large valleys cut by glaciers and snow melt.

Throughout the day, Stuart would pull out his harmonica and play some familiar melody that added a very interesting, simple sound track to the experience. I often forget how powerful the most basic music can be in transforming an experience. I found myself starring in my own movie complete with sound track which made the landscape around me all the more poignant. 

After 4 days on the mountain, the grandeur of the experience tends to retreat and fade into normalcy. However, there would be moments where the larger self would wake to the reality of what was actually transpiring. Even Analytical Jeff would chime in to say "Hey Jeff! You're climbing Kilimanjaro. You need to take this in and enjoy it to the fullest." and for a time I would appreciate my surroundings and contemplate it's context and meaning. States of awe and wonder are still fleeting, even in an environment like this. The human mind has the uncanny ability to be amazed for a time before categorizing the experience as a new normal.

This is looking back at our descent trail from 14,500'...

...and we ascend again into Karanga Camp

At the bottom of the final valley is a stream that contains the closest water for Karanga camp on the ridge above.  All required water for camp had to be retrieved from here by the porters and boiled.  This meant they were making this descent and ascent multiple times throughout the day. Even though we are paying the porters and they're grateful for the work, it's hard not to feel guilty for all they do to support our climb. Get your own water you lazy American bastards!

Kilimanjaro from Karanga Camp (13,250')

The inevitable question arises, "where do you relieve yourself"? Within camp, it's a simple matter of a tented outhouse pictured above. Yes, the porters would even haul this thing up for the lazy spoiled Americans. On the trail, the remedy was less accommodated. For number one, a rock or bush would have to suffice. For number two, one always had TP in the day pack just in case. At higher altitudes there were no trees and it was impossible to cover the expenditure due to the lack of top soil. Luckily, I was spared this indignity throughout the trek.

After a day of acclimatizing by ascending and descending between 12,900' and 14,500', we reached Karanga Camp (13,250') at around 1:00 pm. Of course, the porters had already been there for a while, had set up all the tents and were preparing dinner. Prior to dinner, Stuart and I decide to explore some nearby caves and take some photos at sunset. 

Kilimanjaro from above Karanga Camp

Karanga Camp in the distance

Facial Edema (swelling) sets in

Since there were no mirrors around, I didn't realize this was occurring at the time, but my face was quite swollen. The technical term for this phenomenon is Facial Edema and is basically harmless. It's caused by a combination of cold air and decreased pressure from high altitude. I'm surprised that no one commented on my appearance.  It looks like I gained 30 lbs. Maybe I need just to layoff the fried bread.

As the sun sets, once again the temperature drops into the low 20's. To keep myself from freezing at night it's a matter of long johns combined with another layer of clothing and then slipping into my 20 degree sleeping bag outfitted with a liner.  I even wear thin gloves and my stocking cap.  With all that it's reasonably comfortable sleep inside a nice tent.  Luckily as soon as the sun rises the air warms again.

We are now at Karanga Camp working our way to Barafu

We are now staged for our half-day trek up to Barafu High Camp tomorrow which will serve as our launching pad for the final summit bid at midnight. We've come a long way in 4 days and I'm not feeling any physical symptoms as of yet. I grow more confident that I'll be able to make it to Uhuru Peak (19,350'). I shouldn't be too surprised. Time after time, this big body has risen to the challenge of whatever I choose to put it through. Laura calls me a "mountain", because nothing ever seems to physically phase me among other reasons. It's kind of why reason I do things like this. Part of me wants to know where that breaking point is, so I keep testing for it. Of course, I may get my wish and find it at any moment in this environment, but so far I'm adapting quite well, swollen face not withstanding.

Next Entry: Africa 2014 - Kilimanjaro Day 5