Africa 2014 - Kilimanjaro Day 7 - Mweka Gate (10,150' to 6,200')

"There comes a time on every big mountain when you descend the snows and cross a border back to life." - Jeff Long, The Descent

We woke at 7:00 am in Mweka Camp with Joe giving us one last morning visit to determine our mountain worthiness. Despite the previous days arduous summit and descent, I feel alright. Sore to be sure, but all things considered, I think I've got enough left in these legs to make Mweka Gate. However, yesterday's 9,000' descent took a toll on the feet. It appears I'll be losing at least one of my big toe nails and I've got 4,000' to descend this morning. 4,000' used to sound daunting, but not after yesterday.

To add to today's experience, it's raining in Mweka Camp and promises to continue all the way down to Mweka Gate. I'm kind of pleased because I bought rain gear specifically for this trip and it has not been used until today. Better it rains now on the last day than during our ascent.

Our final descent on the right side to Mweka Gate

We started our descent around 8:00 am in the steady rain. The trails were built to drain the water off of the trail and into ditches, but the first parts were slick in spots. Of course the porters were flying towards the gate as fast as they could. They were as ready to get off the mountain as we were.

Descending to Mweka Gate in the rain

Descending to Mweka Gate in the rain

The persistent rain has water-logged my hands

The rain suit is keeping the rain off of me, but thanks to the humidity, I'm sweating profusely underneath rendering the rain gear redundant. Around the last mile of the hike I developed a blister on my small toe. If you're going to get a blister, you want it at the end of the trip.



Mweka Gate - Civilization, Lower Altitude and Success

We made it to Mweka Gate (6,200') around 11:00 am. What a welcomed site! I realized that I hadn't seen a vehicle in 7 days. Mweka was bustling with local vendors offering, Kilimanjaro Lager, coke or a wash of the boots. We took care of our paperwork at the park office to certify that we had indeed summited Kili. I now have a certificate signed by the Chief Park Warden and Director General to prove that I stood atop the tallest peak in Africa. Cool.

311,541st person to climb Kili

Locals wash your hiking boots for $2

Our group of climbers and guides at Mweka Gate

We snapped some group photos and loaded into buses to take us back the Springland Hotel in Moshi where I would get a much needed shave, shower and massage.  I snapped this picture prior to my overhaul.

My appearance before the shower and shave

While the massage was average, the effect was amazing. It was like having a so, so meal when you're starving. My body desperately needed some attention after the punishment of the past 7 days. It was the best $40 I could spend that day. I then spent a couple of hours updating my notebook with the events of the past few days just in case I couldn't remember them later. Using the hotel's Wi Fi connection I caught up on email and facebook posts.

In the evening, the climbers gathered for dinner. Everyone had put themselves back together and were rested from the full afternoon of downtime.

The guides assembled with the climbers that evening at Springland Hotel for a summit celebration. These Africans exhibit a joy not often seen in Western culture. They sing, dance, laugh and love freely. Their ability to enjoy each other made me aware of the barriers that we Westerners have erected between one another. The difference is palpable. I must admit that it made me a somewhat uncomfortable to experience it within my Western mindset, but I did see it as something to aspire to.



Our celebration with the guides and some of the porters

Each of the 8 climbers tipped the group of porters and guides around $300 each. After witnessing what they did for us, it didn't seem like enough. After our new African friends left, some of us drank a few more Kilimanjaro Lagers. We finally placed a check mark next to this amazing, life-changing entry on our bucket lists and put ourselves to bed.

Prior to my summit of Kilimanjaro, I frequently entertained a fantasy of summiting Everest. I purposefully use the word, "fantasy" instead of "dream" or "goal". I've always wondered what it must feel like to climb and stand at the top of the world. Achieving something like that must be an incredible feeling. Laura was concerned that Kilimanjaro may serve as a stepping stone towards turning that fantasy into a real dream.

Kilimanjaro delivered a verdict regarding Everest. I have absolutely no desire to ever attempt it. The risk of death on Everest is far too high for my sensibilities and the hardship on Kilimanjaro met the limit of what I am willing to endure to climb a mountain. I have a new respect for 29,000'. 19,341' is as high as this body will ever go.

"The smallest kernel of enlightenment is worth immense hardship which is after all temporary." - Jeff Hadden