Africa 2014 - Kilimanjaro Day 6 - Summit Day Descent (19,341' to 10,150')

“Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” - Ed Viesturs

We were allotted only 20 minutes at Uhuru Peak, mostly due to the cumulative affect of high altitude. We were not acclimated to linger at 19,000' for a long period of time. It would have taken more days we didn't have. There are those who actually camp in the Kibo Crater, although I'm not sure why someone would want to do this in such a foreboding environment. After a well orchestrated barrage of photo opportunities among the group and individuals, we began our descent back to Barafu High Camp.

Barafu Camp in the far distance from Stella Point

Our first milestone was Stella Point which we easily reached after 30 minutes or so. The sun was out and the temperature had risen to the 30's. The down coat, balaclava and heavy gortex gloves came off. Barafu Camp was in site most of the way down although quite far away. You can see Barafu if you zoom into the photo above. The goal of reaching the summit had already been accomplished and the apex of our suffering is now in the past. Most of our worries had dissolved and we're using the euphoric feeling of the summit to fuel our descend back to Barafu.

On our descent to Barafu High Camp

The 2.5 hour, 3,500' descent through the scree and pea gravel on the Umbwe Route to Barafu was somewhat difficult but not too unpleasant. This was the wall that we ascended through the night. It seemed much less scary during the descent. Each foot of descent brought more welcomed oxygen and I began to feel somewhat normal again. We learned to use the scree to aid our descent by sliding on top of it. The group splintered based on their varying paces of descent and Joe stayed at the back to make sure everyone made it off the mountain.

Barafu High Camp - A welcomed sight

When we arrived at Barafu High Camp there was a small celebration of high-fives and congratulations. George and Laurel where there looking fresh as daisies, well rested and fed. When I looked back up the wall to Stella Point the mystery of it had vanished. Now it was a known entity and not so intimidating. Isn't that a metaphor for life? Many fears come from the unknown and often prove unwarranted.

Umbwe Route from Barafu High Camp

We were originally allotted a couple of hours at Barafu for lunch and resting before the next 5,000' descent to Mweka Camp, however that time was cut short when new arrivals were looking for places to set up camp. Level ground was not plentiful so we reluctantly surrendered our spots. We had to pack up our duffles and abandon our tents in a fog of exhaustion. Joe warned us the previous day that we would all want to stay at Barafu and he warned "it would not be an option". He was right. I would have given him $100 to stay for just one more hour.

"Its funny. I met a man once who did a lot of mountain climbing. I asked him which was harder, ascending or descending? He said without a doubt descending, because ascending you were so focused on reaching the top, you avoided mistakes. The backside of a mountain is a fight against human nature, he said. You have to care as much about yourself on the way down as you did on the way up." - Ranger Mem Junior

So we began our long slog to Mweka Camp. The need for acclimatization is over so we will get off the mountain quickly. The first 3,000' below Barafu would continue to be through high alpine desert and then we would enter the Moorlands where there is vegetation, but trees are scarce.

Slogging through mud on our descent to Mweka Camp

This is when we begin entering cloud cover and therefore potential for moisture as evidenced by the nearly dry creek bed that would become our trail for the next 2000' of descent. The lower we descended into the rain forest, the more muddy the creek bed became. It became so treacherous that I was legitimately fearful of breaking a bone when I inevitably slipped and fell on a rock. This coupled with the ridiculously long day (15 hours of hiking so far) that we had already endured and our extreme exhaustion, brought the first real frustration during this trek. As if this day wasn't hard enough already, we had to slog through slick mud for 2 more hours. There were no more shouts of "Koochay, Koochay". Of course, the porters had no trouble whatsoever navigating this impossible trail and our guide had to keep stopping to let us catch up. It baffled me how they could walk on the mud and rocks carrying 50 lbs. without hiking poles nor a care in the world.

Mweka Camp after 9,000' of descent

After 17 hours of hiking since beginning our summit bid the night before, we finally hit Mweka Camp at 5:30 pm. I barely had the strength to put air into my sleeping pad and roll out my sleeping bag. My big toes were numb and my legs ached. I'm confident to say I burned more calories on this day than any other in my life (approximately 13,000). Today, I truly appreciate and marvel at the endurance capability of this amazing body in spite of the its' copious consumption of beer, BBQ and bacon.

Dinner was quiet as everyone was beyond exhausted. I couldn't decide which I wanted more; food or sleep. I decided food was probably the prudent decision, so I choked down all the food I could as fast as I could. After leaving the mess tent, I couldn't get into my tent fast enough.

As I settled into my sleeping bag, Stuart told later told me I said, "Hardest day ever..... by far" and began snoring immediately. I do not recall saying it.

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